12 Days - Backroads Of Northern Japan

Depart Tokyo aboard the bullet train and travel north toward Kakunodate, a small town often called the “Little Kyoto of the North.” The three hour journey offers glimpses of Japan’s changing landscape as the city gives way to mountains, rice fields and quiet rural villages. On arrival, step into a place where time feels suspended. Kakunodate’s samurai district preserves the character of the Edo period with its black wooden gates, shaded lanes and traditional houses that once belonged to noble families.

Begin your walk through the historic streets, stopping first at the Ishiguro Samurai House. Inside, the atmosphere is calm and dignified, with tatami floors, sliding doors and displays of samurai armour, swords and family heirlooms. Each room tells part of the story of a class that valued discipline, honour and artistry as much as martial skill. Continue to the nearby Aoyagi House, larger in scale and filled with museum exhibits, calligraphy and crafts that give further insight into the life of samurai families in northern Japan.

Next, visit the Denshokan Museum for an introduction to kabazaiku, the intricate cherry bark craft that originated in Kakunodate. Once practised by samurai during peacetime, this art uses thin layers of cherry bark to create boxes, trays and tea caddies with a natural sheen and warmth. Under the guidance of a local artisan, try your hand at making a small piece to take home as a keepsake. The process is slow and meditative, offering a glimpse into the patience and precision that defines Japanese craftsmanship.

In the late afternoon, head to the Kakunodate Budokan for a private Iaido sword experience. Dressed in traditional attire, learn from two masters who demonstrate the discipline and form of this centuries old martial art. Practise the movements of drawing and striking with calm focus, understanding how balance and respect underpin every gesture. The session concludes with a chance to test your coordination on a target dummy, an engaging and memorable moment for travellers of all ages.

In the evening, settle into the Matagi Lodge Inn, your base for the next few nights. This locally owned mountain lodge offers a warm and personal experience, connecting guests with the traditions and hospitality of Akita’s rural communities. Built in a simple yet comfortable style, it reflects the quiet beauty of its surroundings, with natural wood interiors, handmade furnishings and views of the nearby forested hills. Dinner features regional Akita cuisine prepared with local ingredients, such as mountain vegetables, river fish and hearty stews. Afterward, relax in the onsen baths or gather by the fire to hear stories from the hosts, whose family roots in the region go back generations. The calm setting and sense of connection make the Matagi Lodge Inn a memorable part of your journey in northern Japan.

After breakfast, begin the day with one of northern Japan’s most scenic train rides. Board a private car on the Nanriku Line for a slow thirty minute journey through forested valleys and mountain ridges. The route passes small villages, rice fields and quiet rivers that wind through the countryside. Each season transforms the view: spring brings soft green leaves, summer fills the valleys with life, autumn colours the slopes with deep red and gold, and winter covers everything in snow. The gentle movement of the train offers time to relax and absorb the stillness of rural Akita.

Arriving at a small mountain station, you will be greeted by your Matagi guides. The Matagi are a community of mountain hunters whose traditions date back centuries. Living in close relationship with nature, they developed a unique understanding of the land and a deep respect for its spirits. Spend the morning learning about their tools, clothing and philosophy, and hear stories about how the Matagi survive the long winters and hunt responsibly without depleting what the forest provides. Their wisdom and way of life remain an important part of the region’s identity today.

Lunch is a simple but hearty affair, prepared using local ingredients such as mountain vegetables, wild mushrooms and river fish. The flavours are natural and earthy, reflecting the connection between the Matagi and the land they protect. Shared around a communal table, it’s a chance to slow down and appreciate the warmth and generosity of the people who live here.

In the afternoon, set out on a guided forest hike with your Matagi hosts. The trail winds through tall cedar and beech trees, along rivers and moss covered rocks. Your guides point out signs of wildlife, edible plants and sacred spots along the way. The path leads to a small shrine beside the river where the Matagi come to pray before entering the mountains. Spend some quiet moments at this peaceful site, learning about the rituals performed here and the spiritual connection between the hunters and their surroundings.

Return to your lodge in the late afternoon to rest and unwind. Soak in the warm onsen baths and let the day’s experiences sink in before sitting down to dinner. The evening meal features Akita style cooking, with regional sake and dishes prepared from seasonal local produce. Surrounded by the stillness of the mountains, it’s an ideal way to end a day spent exploring one of Japan’s most authentic and enduring mountain cultures.

After breakfast, set out from your mountain lodge and journey deeper into the Matagi Mountains for a full day immersed in forest life. Your Matagi guides will lead you along ancient trails once used for hunting and gathering. The air is cool and fresh, carrying the scent of cedar and earth. Early in the walk, you will be given a Matagi knife to carve your own walking stick from a fallen branch, a small but symbolic gesture that connects you to the generations who once roamed these same paths.

As you move through the forest, the guides share how they read the terrain to navigate, pointing out signs such as tree growth, moss patterns and animal tracks. The forest here is alive with detail, mushrooms sprouting from tree roots, the sound of running streams and the call of distant birds. Depending on the season, you may spot edible plants or wild vegetables that the guides will gather to include in the evening meal. Each discovery reveals a layer of knowledge that the Matagi have passed down for centuries, rooted in deep respect for balance between people and nature.

Midway through the hike, the group will stop at a small clearing where your guides prepare a rustic barbecue in true Matagi fashion. Around the open fire, enjoy grilled meat and vegetables cooked over flames and sample traditional trail foods such as a chewy, butter rich mochi once carried by hunters for long journeys. The flavours are simple and hearty, sustaining and satisfying in their honesty. For those interested, your hosts may offer a taste of doburo, a homemade unfiltered sake brewed by mountain families, cloudy, mild and full of character.

After lunch, continue the hike at a gentle pace through shaded valleys and forest ridges. The walk offers time to take in the sounds of the forest and the rhythm of life that unfolds far from the city. As the afternoon light softens, return toward the lodge where hot onsen baths await to ease your muscles after the day’s adventure.

Dinner this evening brings another regional favourite, kiritanpo, a dish deeply tied to Akita’s countryside. You will grill mashed rice shaped onto skewers over an open hearth, just as local families have done for generations. The rice is then added to a simmering hot pot filled with chicken, leek and mushrooms. Each bite is comforting, especially when paired with a flight of Akita’s local sake, introduced by your hosts with stories about its origins and flavours. The evening ends around the hearth, surrounded by laughter and warmth, a perfect close to a day steeped in tradition, craftsmanship and mountain hospitality.

After breakfast, leave your lodge and enjoy a scenic forty minute drive through winding mountain roads toward the Hachimantai highlands. The journey itself is an experience, passing dense forests, river valleys and open stretches of volcanic terrain. Upon reaching the trailhead, meet your Matagi guides and prepare to hike into the wilderness surrounding Akamizu Gorge, one of the region’s most unspoiled natural areas.

The trail follows the course of clear mountain streams and leads through lush forests that shift in character with the seasons. In spring and summer, the walk is gentle and filled with the scent of new growth and running water. In autumn, the slopes are painted in shades of red, gold and amber. In winter, the hike becomes more demanding, as snow covers the path and the streams turn to icy ribbons winding through the white landscape. For experienced hikers, this is a rewarding challenge, with the Matagi guides sharing their expertise in reading the terrain and moving safely through changing conditions.

Along the way, the guides explain how they rely on these same routes for hunting and gathering, teaching you techniques for navigating the forest using natural markers such as tree patterns and rock formations. Stops are made at key spots to rest, take photographs and appreciate the raw beauty of this remote landscape. The sound of running water and the cool mountain air create a sense of peace and connection with nature that few places can match.

After completing the hike, transfer to Shintamagawa Onsen, one of Japan’s most remote and revered hot spring resorts. Nestled deep in the mountains, it is famous for its milky white geothermal waters rich in minerals and its natural outdoor baths surrounded by forest. Soak in the open air baths as steam rises into the cool evening air, the perfect reward after a day spent exploring the highlands.

Dinner is served at the inn, featuring local ingredients and mountain fare. The warmth of the onsen, the quiet of the surrounding wilderness and the hospitality of your hosts make this one of the most peaceful and rejuvenating stays of your journey. Overnight at Shintamagawa Onsen.

After breakfast, depart Shintamagawa Onsen and enjoy a scenic drive north through forested valleys and farmland toward Hirosaki City, a cultural and historical gem of northern Honshu. The journey takes around one hour and forty five minutes by private car, following winding roads that reveal views of the countryside framed by distant peaks. Upon arrival, settle in for lunch at a local restaurant serving seasonal dishes and regional favourites before beginning your exploration of the city.

Start with a visit to Tsugaru-han Neputa Village, an interactive cultural centre dedicated to the region’s famous Neputa Festival. Inside, see enormous hand painted festival floats and learn about the artistry behind their creation. Traditional crafts such as Tsugaru lacquerware and shamisen making are also displayed here, offering a deeper understanding of the area’s craftsmanship and performing arts. If you like, take part in a hands on activity such as painting your own sake cup, a creative and personal souvenir that captures the spirit of the region.

Next, begin your cycling tour of Hirosaki City. Rent an e-bike or standard bicycle and set out with your guide to explore tree lined streets and old neighbourhoods filled with charm. The electric assist allows you to travel comfortably through the city, stopping at hidden temples, family run cafés and artisan shops along the way. Hirosaki is known as Japan’s apple capital, and the local tourism board even publishes a map of the city’s best apple pies. Following the trail is a sweet and playful way to experience the city’s flavours as you cycle from one bakery to another.

In the afternoon, make your way to Hirosaki Castle and Park, one of the few remaining original castles in Japan. The castle is surrounded by moats, stone walls and expansive gardens that change with the seasons. In spring, over two thousand cherry trees bloom, transforming the park into one of Japan’s most celebrated sakura viewing spots. In autumn, the trees turn shades of red and gold, while winter blankets the castle grounds in quiet snow. Take time to explore the walkways, visit the castle keep and enjoy the panoramic views across the city to Mount Iwaki in the distance.

As the day winds down, return your bikes and stroll through the nearby streets where old buildings mix with modern shops and cafés. The relaxed pace of Hirosaki, combined with its rich culture and natural beauty, makes this a refreshing stop on your journey through northern Japan.

After breakfast, depart Hirosaki and head west toward the UNESCO World Heritage forests of Shirakami Sanchi, one of Japan’s last remaining untouched beech forests. The drive takes around thirty to forty minutes depending on which trailhead you visit, passing through quiet rural landscapes that gradually give way to the deep green mountains of the Shirakami range.

Your morning is spent exploring this remarkable ecosystem on a guided half day hike. You can choose from several walking routes depending on your interest and fitness level. The gentle trail to Aoike Pond is a favourite, leading through dense forest to a pool of deep blue water so clear it almost seems to glow. The surrounding trees reflect perfectly on its surface, creating an otherworldly scene that feels far removed from modern life.

For those seeking a bit more adventure, follow the longer route toward Anmon Waterfalls. This trail winds along forest streams, crossing wooden bridges and narrow paths lined with tall beech trees. The sound of rushing water grows louder as you approach the falls, which cascade dramatically down the rocks in three distinct tiers. The cool mist and echoing flow of the water create an atmosphere of quiet power and renewal.

Throughout the walk, breathe in the clean mountain air and listen to the birdsong that fills the forest canopy. The pace of the hike is relaxed, allowing time to enjoy the natural beauty and pause at scenic viewpoints. Most routes take between one and a half to two hours and can be tailored to your preference.

After completing the hike, return toward Hirosaki and stop for a leisurely lunch at a local restaurant serving simple regional dishes made with fresh vegetables, wild herbs and river fish. The meal is unhurried and wholesome, perfectly suited to the calm of the morning. Back in Hirosaki, enjoy the rest of the day at your own pace, perhaps visiting local shops or cafés, or simply resting with the peaceful stillness of the forest still in your thoughts.

After breakfast, leave Hirosaki and travel east toward Lake Towada, one of Japan’s most striking natural lakes. The drive takes around one hour, passing through rolling countryside and mountain forests before reaching the shores of this deep, crystal clear crater lake. Formed by volcanic activity thousands of years ago, Lake Towada is surrounded by steep, wooded hills that change colour dramatically with the seasons. In spring and summer, the air is filled with birdsong and the scent of pine, while autumn paints the slopes in fiery reds and golds.

Spend the morning exploring the lakeside area at your own pace. You may choose to paddle across the calm waters by canoe or stand up paddleboard, taking in the reflections of the mountains on the surface of the lake. For those who prefer a slower start, enjoy a stroll along the lakeshore or simply relax at one of the cafés overlooking the water. A lakeside lunch featuring local specialties such as Towada pork or freshly caught fish makes for a peaceful midday break.

After lunch, continue to Oirase Gorge, a short drive from the lake. This scenic valley is one of Japan’s most celebrated natural walks, famous for its clear streams, moss covered stones and cascading waterfalls. The gentle trail follows the river for several kilometres, shaded by tall trees whose leaves filter the sunlight into soft patterns on the ground. Walking here captures the essence of shinrin yoku, or forest bathing, a practice of immersing yourself in the atmosphere of the woods to calm the mind and restore energy.

As you follow the path, pause often to admire the smaller waterfalls and to listen to the sounds of the rushing water mixed with the rustle of leaves. The Oirase stream walk can be done in sections, making it flexible for families or those who prefer a lighter pace. The combination of water, air and forest makes this one of the most soothing and memorable landscapes in northern Japan.

In the late afternoon, continue by private car to Hachinohe, a port city on the Pacific coast. The drive takes around one hour and thirty minutes. For those preferring a more indulgent stay, we can arrange accommodation at a luxury resort in the Oirase Gorge area, allowing more time to relax in nature before continuing your journey.

Wake early to the sound of the sea and begin your day with a visit to the lively Tatehana Wharf Morning Market, only a ten minute drive from central Hachinohe. This local institution stretches for hundreds of metres along the harbour and features around three hundred stalls selling freshly caught seafood, local produce, grilled snacks and handmade goods. Enjoy breakfast as you wander, tasting seasonal treats such as grilled scallops, sea urchin rice bowls and freshly brewed local coffee. The atmosphere is cheerful and distinctly local, with fishermen, farmers and families mingling along the waterfront.

From the market, continue to Kabushima Shrine, just a short seven minute drive away. The shrine sits on a small island connected to the mainland and is known for the hundreds of black tailed gulls that nest here each year. Their presence has made the shrine a symbol of safe journeys and good fortune. As you explore, you’ll see gulls perched on the red torii gate, circling overhead and calling across the sea breeze. It’s a place of both natural beauty and gentle spiritual energy, perfectly marking the start of your coastal adventure.

From Kabushima, begin your walk along the Michinoku Coastal Trail, one of Japan’s most scenic long distance routes. This section of the trail runs through the Tanesashi Coast area, where grassy meadows meet the sea. The path follows cliffs and coves with panoramic views of the Pacific, passing quiet beaches and lookout points where waves crash against the rocks. Take your time along the trail, stopping to enjoy the view, collect seashells or sit for a picnic. The walking pace is easy and flexible, ideal for travellers of all ages who want to experience the simple pleasure of Japan’s northern coastline.

In the afternoon, you’ll arrive at the Tanesashi Coast Camp Grounds, a wide stretch of open grassland beside the ocean. Here, you can spend the night under the stars in a national park setting that feels far from the modern world. Fall asleep to the sound of the waves or choose to upgrade your stay with the Tanesashi Glamping option, where comfortable beds, private facilities and warm lighting add a touch of luxury to the wilderness.

As evening settles, the coastline glows with the last light of the day and the air cools with the scent of salt and grass. Sitting outside with a warm drink or freshly grilled seafood, you’ll feel the calm and freedom that defines travel through Japan’s backroads - quiet, natural and deeply rewarding.

Wake early to one of the most beautiful sunrises in northern Japan. The open grasslands of Tanesashi Coast face directly toward the Pacific, and the first light of day spills across the ocean in soft shades of gold and pink. Begin the morning with a gentle session of yoga and meditation on the coast, breathing in the fresh sea air and listening to the sound of waves rolling onto the shore. The calm and clarity of this experience set a peaceful tone for the day ahead.

Afterward, enjoy a hearty breakfast overlooking the water before setting out on the next stage of your journey. Continue along the coastal trail for around two hours, walking at a relaxed pace through stretches of grassland, rocky paths and forested sections that open up to sweeping ocean views. Along the way, stop at small shrines tucked between trees and cliffs, where offerings of shells and flowers are left for the spirits of the sea. The walk is both scenic and reflective, offering time to appreciate the quiet beauty of the Sanriku coastline.

By midday, pause for a simple lunch at a seaside café or local eatery before boarding the coastal train that runs along the Sanriku line. The journey to Fudai follows the ocean closely, offering glimpses of fishing ports, coves and rugged headlands through the windows. This route is considered one of Japan’s most picturesque local train rides, with every curve revealing another stretch of unspoiled coastline.

On arrival in Fudai, meet your local guide for a walking tour of the town. Fudai is a small, close-knit community known for its resilience and self-sufficiency. The shops, cafés and bakeries are family owned, and nearly everything sold is made, grown or caught locally. Stop to chat with the people who bake their own bread, craft sweets by hand, or sell produce harvested from their own fields. The pace of life here is slow and genuine, offering a glimpse into daily life along Japan’s northern coast.

As evening approaches, check in to your accommodation and relax in the onsen baths before sitting down to a home-style dinner featuring locally caught seafood and mountain vegetables. Depending on the season and availability, the evening may include a Kagura performance - a lively form of traditional Japanese theatre that retells ancient folklore through music, dance and humour. The performers often invite the audience to join in, creating a fun and memorable experience that brings local culture to life. Surrounded by laughter and warm hospitality, the day ends with a true sense of connection to the people and traditions of coastal Japan.

After breakfast, set out with your guide for another memorable section of the Sanriku Coastal Trail. This part of the journey carries deep meaning, as it passes through areas that were severely affected by the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami in 2011. The walk offers not only stunning coastal scenery but also an insight into the resilience and spirit of the people who rebuilt their communities from the ground up.

The trail winds along the coastline, alternating between gentle forest paths and open stretches overlooking the Pacific. Hidden coves, steep cliffs and small beaches appear one after another, revealing the raw beauty of the Sanriku coast. As you walk, your guide shares stories of recovery and remembrance, pointing out memorials and landmarks that honour those lost in the disaster. The scenery is powerful yet peaceful, with the rhythm of the sea reminding travellers of both nature’s force and its capacity to heal.

Around midday, stop for lunch at Tsukuehama Banya, a small fishing village that sits in a narrow valley surrounded by cliffs. Once devastated by the tsunami, the area has since been carefully rebuilt. Brightly coloured homes, fishing nets and small boats line the harbour, symbolising the perseverance of its residents. Enjoy a simple but heartfelt meal prepared by local families, featuring fresh seafood and regional vegetables. The hospitality here is warm and genuine, leaving a lasting impression on all who visit.

After lunch, experience the sea from a new perspective on a Sappa boat, a small open vessel traditionally used by local fishermen. If conditions allow, head out from the harbour into the open waters, gliding through narrow inlets and along the towering cliffs of the Sanriku coast. From the boat, the view of the rugged shoreline is spectacular, with waves crashing against the rocks and seabirds circling overhead as your guide points out geological formations and hidden caves. It is a humbling and unforgettable way to appreciate the power and beauty of the Pacific.

Return to land and continue by private car to your accommodation in Taro, around forty minutes away. Settle into your hotel and enjoy the comfort of modern amenities, hot baths and fine dining after a day of reflection and discovery. The evening is yours to relax and unwind, perhaps with a quiet walk along the beach or a drink as you watch the sun sink into the sea.

Begin the morning with a reflective visit to the remains of a hotel in Taro that withstood the devastating tsunami of 2011. Standing before the structure offers a powerful reminder of the disaster’s impact and the strength of the Tohoku people who rebuilt their lives in its aftermath. Your guide will share stories from survivors and explain how this site now serves as a monument of resilience and remembrance for the community.

A short walk from the hotel site reveals three enormous boulders that were moved inland by the force of the waves. Each weighs several tons, a striking visual example of the sheer power of the ocean that day. The quiet setting allows time to pause and reflect before continuing on the next section of the Sanriku Coastal Trail.

The hike ahead takes around three to four hours, following a path that runs close to the shoreline. The scenery is captivating, with rugged cliffs, small inlets and the rhythmic sound of the waves shaping the landscape. In several sections, the beaches are made up of small, smooth stones that create a unique melody as the water rushes over them and retreats again. This natural soundscape adds a meditative quality to the walk, making it one of the most memorable stretches of the trail.

As you continue, the path passes Sakiyama Blowhole, one of the area’s most impressive geological features. Here, waves crash into a narrow opening in the rock, sending jets of seawater shooting up to fifteen metres into the air. When conditions are right, the display is both dramatic and awe inspiring, a vivid reminder of nature’s raw energy.

From the blowhole, the trail leads toward Jodogahama, a serene bay known for its striking white rocks and clear blue water. The name translates to “Pure Land Beach,” reflecting its peaceful and almost otherworldly beauty. The final twenty minute drive to Miyako brings you to your accommodation for the night, where you can relax after a full day of hiking and reflection. Enjoy dinner featuring local seafood and seasonal ingredients before settling in for a well earned rest by the coast.

Begin your final morning in Miyako at the beautiful Jodogahama Bay, one of the most iconic natural sights along the Sanriku Coast. If you are not staying at the Jodogahama Park Hotel, a short drive will bring you to the bay where your day begins with a sea kayaking adventure. Paddle across calm, clear waters surrounded by striking white limestone formations and forested cliffs that rise dramatically from the sea. Glide between the rock arches and small islands, and learn from your guide about the protected marine sanctuary and the small shrine that sits quietly offshore. The combination of movement, scenery and ocean air makes this a refreshing and memorable start to the day.

After kayaking, settle in for lunch at a seaside restaurant overlooking the bay. The menu highlights the region’s exceptional seafood, including a local specialty known as bindon. This dish features fresh ingredients such as sea urchin, scallops and salmon roe served in a glass jar, which is poured over rice to create a rich and flavourful donburi. It is both simple and indulgent, a fitting finale to your time along Japan’s northern coast.

Following lunch, take a final walk along the Jodogahama trail, a gentle one hour hike that loops around the cliffs and forested hills above the bay. The trail offers panoramic views of the coastline and quiet forest paths lined with pine and wildflowers. From several lookout points, you can see the kayaks moving far below and the deep blue of the Pacific stretching to the horizon. The walk provides a peaceful conclusion to your time in Tohoku, a chance to reflect on the natural beauty and resilience of this remarkable region.

After finishing the trail, board your private vehicle for the drive to Morioka Station. The journey takes you inland through green valleys and mountain passes, gradually returning to the pace of city life. At the station, there will be time for a few last souvenirs such as regional sweets or local handicrafts before boarding the bullet train back to Tokyo.

As the Shinkansen speeds south, the memories of your journey through northern Japan stay with you - the quiet forests, coastal trails, mountain hot springs and the warmth of the people who call this region home. Your adventure ends on arrival in Tokyo, marking the close of a truly unique and unforgettable exploration of Japan’s backroads.