15 Days - Backroads Of Bhutan

The flight into Bhutan is unforgettable, offering a panorama of the high Himalayas before descending into the lush Paro Valley. On clear days, passengers may catch glimpses of Everest, Kanchenjunga, or Bhutan’s own sacred peaks before the aircraft sweeps low over pine covered ridges and terraced fields. The landing is widely regarded as one of the most spectacular in the world, providing a thrilling introduction to this secluded and enchanting kingdom.

After completing arrival formalities, you will be met at the airport by your guide and driver with a traditional white scarf of welcome. From here, it is about a one hour transfer to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, following the course of the Pa Chu River as it flows past villages, farmland, and hillside monasteries. The road offers your first impressions of Bhutan’s blend of rugged landscapes and a deeply spiritual culture.

Arriving in Thimphu, you will find a capital unlike any other. It is the only capital city in the world without traffic lights, relying instead on police officers directing cars with graceful hand signals. Here, tradition coexists with modernity: crimson robed monks walk past government buildings, markets bustle with local produce, and young Bhutanese gather in cafés. As the political, economic, and cultural centre of the country, Thimphu reveals the balance between Buddhist spirituality and contemporary sophistication.

After checking into your hotel, there will be time to rest and adjust to the altitude before heading out for a gentle orientation walk. A relaxed exploration of the city introduces you to its rhythms: colourful prayer flags fluttering above rooftops, shopfronts painted with intricate designs, and street vendors selling snacks and fruit. This soft introduction helps you acclimatise while soaking in the character of Bhutan’s capital.

In the evening, enjoy dinner at your hotel where your guide will host an introductory briefing. This is a chance to ask questions, understand the journey ahead, and gain insight into the days to come as you travel deeper into Bhutan’s backroads and more remote valleys. Overnight in Thimphu.

This morning begins with a short drive north to the Choki Traditional Arts School, which operates from Monday to Friday. Here, young students dedicate themselves to mastering Bhutan’s thirteen traditional arts and crafts, from woodcarving and painting to embroidery and sculpture. The atmosphere is lively and inspiring, as each classroom hums with concentration and creativity. The school plays an important role in preserving Bhutan’s unique heritage while also giving students the chance to build independent livelihoods through their skills.

Continue to the Royal Textile Academy, Bhutan’s most important centre for the conservation and promotion of weaving. Its galleries display a wide range of exquisitely hand woven textiles, many created using natural organic dyes and woven on traditional backstrap looms. Some of the most prized exhibits include ceremonial garments worn by members of the royal family, their intricate patterns and vibrant colours reflecting centuries of refinement in this art form. The visit is both educational and visually striking, bringing to life one of Bhutan’s most respected crafts.

In the afternoon, visit Takin Park, home to Bhutan’s national animal. The takin, an unusual goat antelope that looks like no other creature, is linked to legends of the Divine Madman and is found only in this part of the Himalayas. The park also provides a sanctuary for injured or abandoned animals, making it an important centre for conservation as well as a fascinating stop for visitors. Children and adults alike often find the takin’s appearance both curious and endearing.

Later, head to Tashichodzong, the jewel of Thimphu and one of the country’s most impressive fortresses. Originally built in the seventeenth century and later renovated in the 1960s, it now serves as the seat of the Royal Government of Bhutan. Inside its whitewashed walls you will find numerous temples, administrative offices, and the throne room of His Majesty the King. The dzong is both a symbol of Bhutan’s history and a living centre of governance, embodying the balance between religion and state.

As the day winds down, enjoy an evening stroll through Thimphu town. The streets fill with locals shopping, socialising, and relaxing in cafés, giving you a chance to soak up the rhythms of Bhutanese urban life. It is a final opportunity to enjoy the capital’s mix of tradition and modernity before the journey continues into the countryside and the more remote valleys that lie ahead. Overnight in Thimphu.

Today you set out on the drive from Thimphu to Phobjikha, a journey of about four to five hours that crosses some of the most beautiful landscapes in Bhutan. The road climbs steadily through alpine forest before opening to sweeping views of valleys and distant peaks. Along the way you will pass villages where prayer flags flutter in the wind and farmers tend their terraced fields, each turn of the road offering another view of the country’s natural beauty.

One of the highlights of the journey is Dochula Pass, perched at more than three thousand metres. Here, 108 whitewashed chortens stand together against a backdrop of Himalayan peaks. On a clear day the view stretches across the snow covered mountains, while even in mist the pass has a quiet, atmospheric quality. It is a good place to pause, stretch your legs, and take in the crisp alpine air before continuing the drive.

As the road begins to descend, you may stop at Wangdiphodrang Dzong, a fortress that commands a strategic position overlooking the river valley. Although damaged by fire in recent years, the dzong remains an impressive structure with beautifully restored details and sweeping views. The stop adds a cultural layer to the day’s journey, balancing the natural scenery with Bhutan’s architectural heritage.

From here the drive continues deeper into central Bhutan, winding through subtropical valleys, forests of rhododendron and magnolia, and traditional hamlets where time seems to move slowly. The scenery grows wilder and more remote as you approach the Phobjikha Valley, a vast glacial basin that feels far removed from the bustle of the capital you left behind.

Arriving in Phobjikha by late afternoon, you will find yourself in one of Bhutan’s most enchanting valleys. Best known as the winter home of the endangered black necked cranes, it is also a place of quiet beauty and traditional village life. After checking into your hotel there will be time to relax and take in the wide open views before dinner. Overnight in Phobjikha.

The day begins with a visit to Gangtey Monastery, one of the most important centres of the Nyingma school of Buddhism. Founded in the sixteenth century, the monastery overlooks the valley from a high ridge, its whitewashed walls and tiered roofs exemplifying traditional Bhutanese craftsmanship. Walking through the main courtyard and prayer halls, you will hear the chanting of monks and smell the faint aroma of butter lamps, creating an atmosphere that is both solemn and welcoming.

Just outside the monastery lies the small town of Gangtey, a rustic settlement with a handful of shops and art studios. Here you can observe artisans at work, browse for handmade crafts, or simply stroll through the lanes where daily life unfolds at an unhurried pace. The town provides a contrast to the grandeur of the monastery, showing how spiritual and everyday life coexist in Bhutan.

From Gangtey, continue on foot along the Gangtey Nature Trail, a gentle walk that passes through meadows, pine forest, and the roosting grounds of the endangered black necked cranes. This easy hike offers wonderful opportunities for photography, from sweeping valley views to intimate glimpses of village fields. During the winter months, the cranes arrive from Tibet and can often be seen gliding across the valley, a sight that is regarded as deeply auspicious by the Bhutanese.

In the afternoon, visit the Black Necked Crane Observation Centre, which works to protect and study these remarkable birds. Displays explain the cranes’ migration patterns and cultural significance, and telescopes are available for viewing when the flocks are present. The centre also cares for Karma and Pema, two injured cranes who are unable to migrate and provide visitors with a rare chance to see the birds up close.

Later in the day, there is the option to visit a village home where you can meet local families and learn about traditional life in this remote valley. Sharing tea in a farmhouse kitchen provides an intimate window into how communities here live closely with the land and its rhythms. As evening falls, return to your hotel to enjoy dinner and the quiet beauty of Phobjikha under a star filled sky. Overnight in Phobjikha.

This morning begins with a drive of just over one hour along a dirt backroad that branches from the periphery of Phobjikha Valley. The route climbs gently through forest and pasture, passing scattered hamlets where life appears unchanged for centuries. Few outsiders venture along this track, and the sense of remoteness grows stronger as you approach the small settlement of Gogona.

On arrival in the village, you will be welcomed into a world that feels far removed from Bhutan’s main valleys. The people here rely primarily on cattle farming for their livelihood, with herds of cows and yaks grazing in the surrounding meadows. Families make their own butter, cheese, and yoghurt, and the air is often filled with the aroma of fresh dairy being prepared. This slower, pastoral rhythm is an authentic reflection of rural Bhutanese life.

Visits to farmers’ homes provide a chance to see the interiors of traditional houses, with wooden beams, family shrines, and kitchens warmed by wood stoves. Sharing simple snacks and fresh dairy products, you will have the opportunity to learn directly from the villagers about their daily routines, challenges, and traditions. The conversations are informal but heartfelt, creating a strong sense of connection.

A short walk through the village will also take you to its small temple, a place of quiet devotion where prayer flags flutter in the breeze. While modest compared to larger monasteries, the temple is central to the spiritual life of the community and offers insight into how religion is woven into daily activities. The surrounding landscape of green pastures and forested hills makes this a peaceful and contemplative setting.

In the late afternoon, return to Phobjikha along the same backroad, the journey providing further opportunities to appreciate the valley’s wild beauty. Arriving back at your hotel, there will be time to relax and reflect on the day’s encounters before enjoying dinner. Overnight in Phobjikha.

This morning you leave Phobjikha and drive towards Punakha, once the medieval capital of Bhutan. The journey takes you back along mountain roads that descend into warmer valleys filled with terraced rice fields and villages. Along the way, your guide will arrange several stops at wayside markets where farmers sell fresh produce and handmade goods. These breaks provide photo opportunities, a chance to stretch, and the simple pleasure of breathing in the crisp mountain air.

Before reaching Punakha town, make a stop for a short and easy walk of about thirty minutes round trip to Chimi Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to Drukpa Kunley, the saint affectionately known as the Divine Madman. He is remembered for his unorthodox approach to teaching Buddhism, often using humour and irreverence to spread his message. Today, the temple is regarded as a symbol of fertility, and couples, especially newlyweds and those without children, make pilgrimages here to seek blessings.

Continuing into Punakha, arrive at the banks of the river and cross a traditional cantilever bridge that leads to Punakha Dzong, often described as the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan. Known as the Castle of Great Happiness, the dzong sits at the confluence of the Pho Chu and Mo Chu rivers, its white walls and golden roofs rising majestically from the riverbank. Inside its courtyards and temples, murals and statues tell stories of the Buddha’s life. The dzong has played a central role in Bhutan’s history, hosting coronations, royal weddings, and ceremonies of national importance.

After visiting the dzong, walk to the nearby Pho Chu suspension bridge, the longest in Bhutan. Draped in prayer flags and gently swaying above the turquoise river, the bridge offers panoramic views of the valley and a hint of adventure for those who cross. The refreshing breeze and the sound of the river below create a moment of calm and connection with the landscape.

Later in the afternoon, there is the option to spend time at Kaja Throm, a riverside café and bar where locals and visitors gather. It is a relaxed setting to unwind, sip a drink, and reflect on the day’s experiences while watching the river flow by. The atmosphere here contrasts beautifully with the grandeur of the dzong, giving you a sense of both the solemnity and the everyday life of Punakha. Overnight in Punakha.

This morning you depart Punakha for the drive north to Gasa, a journey of around two hours that reveals some of Bhutan’s wildest landscapes. The road winds gradually upward through subtropical forest before entering dense, broad leaved woodland filled with moss, ferns, and towering trees. Along the way, you will pass mountain side villages where fields cling to steep slopes and traditional farmhouses overlook the valleys below. The sense of remoteness deepens with every kilometre as the road narrows and climbs.

The area is rich in biodiversity and provides habitat for Bhutan’s national animal, the takin. These unusual creatures are often linked with Bhutanese folklore and are emblematic of the country’s unique ecology. Birdlife is also abundant here, and you may spot brightly coloured species flitting among the forest canopy. It is worth remembering that the road to Gasa was only completed in 2015, and until then this frontier region was accessible only on foot. The journey today offers a glimpse into a part of Bhutan that has only recently opened to visitors.

On arrival in Gasa, visit the seventeenth century dzong that dominates the ridge above the town. Built as a defensive stronghold against Tibetan incursions, the fortress has thick stone walls and commanding views of the valleys and mountains that surround it. Its history as a frontier outpost gives it a different character to the dzongs of western Bhutan, and the quiet atmosphere reflects the isolation of the region.

Later, make your way to the hot springs of Gasa, long regarded as a place of healing. There are five pools here, each with a different temperature ranging from gently warm to very hot. Bhutanese physicians have recommended bathing in these waters for centuries, and many people still come seeking relief from ailments or simply to relax. A soak in the springs is both restorative and culturally significant, connecting you with a tradition that has been practiced for generations.

As there are no hotels in Gasa, the night will be spent in a homestay with a local family. This simple but comfortable arrangement offers a rare insight into rural life, from sharing meals prepared on wood stoves to observing the customs and routines of everyday living in this remote corner of Bhutan. The experience provides not only accommodation but also a deeper understanding of Bhutanese hospitality and resilience. Overnight in Gasa.

This morning the journey continues deeper into northern Bhutan with a two hour drive from Gasa to Taktsimakhang. The road climbs steadily through rugged forested hillsides, offering occasional glimpses of snow covered peaks and valleys where rivers rush through narrow gorges. At Taktsimakhang, special permits are required for entry into Laya, one of the most remote settlements in the kingdom, underscoring the isolation and protected status of this frontier region.

From here, begin a two hour hike to reach Laya itself. The trail winds steadily upwards through alpine forest and open pasture before finally emerging onto the plateau where the village is situated. At an altitude of 3,800 metres, Laya is among the highest permanent settlements in the world. The walk is invigorating and offers views across sweeping landscapes that grow more dramatic with each turn of the path.

Arriving in the village, you will immediately notice the distinctive culture of the Layap people. Men and women are traditionally known for their striking appearance, which locals attribute to the pristine environment, fresh spring water, and a lifestyle still deeply tied to the land. Women wear unique conical hats with pointed tops, while both genders maintain dress styles that set them apart from other Bhutanese communities.

Life in Laya remains semi nomadic and closely connected to the environment. Families rely on the rearing of yaks, the collection of high altitude medicinal herbs, and the cultivation of hardy root vegetables and greens that can withstand the harsh climate. The simplicity of daily life here is striking, but so too is the resilience required to thrive in such a remote and elevated setting.

With no hotels in the region, you will be welcomed into the home of a local family for the night. Staying in a Layap household provides a rare opportunity to share meals, observe customs, and learn directly from villagers about their traditions and challenges. The homestay is simple but warm, offering both shelter and genuine hospitality. Overnight in Laya.

Today is spent in and around Laya, allowing time to experience the rhythms of this remote mountain village. Begin with a visit to the local primary school, where children from the community study in a simple but lively environment. Meeting students and teachers provides a glimpse into how education is managed in such an isolated setting.

Continue to the village temple, where locals gather for prayer and community events. The temple is modest but important, reflecting the role of faith in sustaining life at high altitude. Afterward, spend time meeting villagers, chatting in homes or at one of the two small shops that serve as gathering points for the community.

The rest of the day is relaxed, with opportunities for short exploratory walks around the settlement. These gentle trails reveal sweeping views of the mountains that surround Laya and allow you to observe villagers tending to their yaks or carrying out daily tasks. The combination of encounters, walks, and quiet observation gives a true sense of life in this unique Himalayan community. Dinner and overnight in a family homestay.

This morning you bid farewell to your village hosts in Laya, whose hospitality has offered a rare insight into semi nomadic life in Bhutan. Leaving the high altitude settlement behind, you begin a steady descent along the same trail taken two days earlier. The walk is unhurried, allowing you to once again enjoy the views of alpine forests and distant mountains before reaching Taksimakhang. Here your vehicle will be waiting for the onward journey.

Before starting the drive, there is the option to revisit the Gasa hot springs for a final soak. The springs are considered therapeutic, with pools of varying temperature that have been used for centuries by Bhutanese seeking relief from ailments and fatigue. Taking time to relax in the warm mineral waters offers both comfort and continuity with tradition, making for a fitting pause after your days in the remote highlands.

From Gasa, the road gradually descends towards the warmer valleys of western Bhutan. The drive takes about two hours, winding through forests alive with bird calls and passing small villages set against the backdrop of rice terraces. The shift from alpine scenery to subtropical climate is gradual but noticeable, with banana plants and broad leaf trees replacing pines and rhododendrons as you near Punakha.

Along the way, there will be opportunities to stop at viewpoints and roadside stalls, where locals sell seasonal produce and handicrafts. These short breaks provide a chance to stretch your legs, meet villagers, and reflect on the transition from the isolation of Laya to the livelier valleys of central Bhutan.

Arriving in Punakha, check into your hotel and enjoy some time at leisure. The milder climate and fertile valley floor make Punakha a pleasant contrast to the high mountains of Laya. Dinner is served at the hotel, and the evening is yours to rest ahead of the explorations planned for tomorrow. Overnight in Punakha.

This morning you set out on the drive from Punakha to Paro, a journey of around three hours that crosses the Dochula Pass. The road climbs steadily out of the valley, offering wide views of farmland and forest before reaching the pass at over three thousand metres. Here, 108 whitewashed chortens rise in neat rows, a striking sight against the backdrop of the Himalayan peaks. On a clear day, the panorama of snow capped mountains is breathtaking. Several stops will be made along the way for photographs, refreshments, and to stretch your legs at roadside markets and viewpoints.

Arriving in Paro by midday, you will enjoy lunch before beginning the afternoon’s explorations. The first stop is Ta Dzong, once a watchtower guarding the valley and now the National Museum of Bhutan. Its circular structure houses an impressive collection of religious thangkas, ancient weapons, traditional costumes, and intricate stamp designs. Displays on the country’s ecology and environment add depth to your understanding of Bhutan’s cultural and natural heritage.

From the museum, continue to Paro Rinpung Dzong, known as the Fortress of the Heap of Jewels. Built in 1646 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the fortress is both a spiritual and administrative centre, housing monastic quarters alongside government offices. Its courtyards, decorated with murals and woodwork, reflect Bhutanese craftsmanship at its finest. Your guide will share stories of the dzong’s role in local history and its continued importance in daily life.

After visiting the dzong, follow the ancient cobblestone path that leads down to the river. Crossing the sixteenth century cantilever bridge draped with prayer flags is like stepping back in time, and the bridge itself remains a proud example of Bhutanese engineering and design. The short walk offers wonderful views of the fortress and the river below.

Later in the afternoon, enjoy time to explore Paro town. The main street is lined with traditional shops and cafés, where you can browse for souvenirs, sip tea, or simply sit and soak up the relaxed atmosphere of this charming valley town. Dinner is served at your hotel, followed by an overnight stay in Paro.

Soon after breakfast, set out on the scenic drive from Paro to Haa Valley, which takes around two hours. The road climbs steadily towards Chele La Pass at 3,800 metres, one of the highest motorable passes in Bhutan. From the summit, the panorama is unforgettable: sweeping views of mountain ridges, alpine meadows, and the snow capped peak of Mount Jumolhari towering at 7,314 metres. Colourful prayer flags strung across the pass flutter in the wind, adding a spiritual dimension to the natural grandeur.

From the pass, descend into the secluded Haa Valley, a destination that only opened to visitors in 2002 and remains one of the least explored regions of Bhutan. The road winds through pastures dotted with grazing yaks before reaching the valley floor. Here, fields of barley, millet, potatoes, and wheat stretch across the land, framed by traditional farmhouses that display ornate cornices and intricately painted three tiered windows. The quiet beauty of Haa feels timeless, with its landscapes and communities still largely untouched by mass tourism.

After lunch, begin your exploration of rustic Haa town. The streets are lined with large traditional homes and simple shops, where the pace of life feels unhurried. A highlight of the afternoon is a visit to Lhakhang Karpo, the White Temple. According to legend, this temple was built in the seventh century by King Songtsen Gampo, with the help of nomads who constructed it in a single day. The name of the valley, Haa, meaning “sudden,” is said to come from this story.

The temple itself is a serene and historic site, with whitewashed walls, traditional woodwork, and a peaceful setting surrounded by fields. Spending time here connects you not only with Bhutanese spirituality but also with the rich folklore and oral traditions that give the region its unique identity.

For those interested in a deeper experience, there is the option to overnight at a farmhouse homestay in the valley. Staying with a local family allows you to observe traditional routines, share a home cooked meal, and, if you wish, enjoy a traditional hot stone bath - a practice believed to relax muscles and restore balance. Whether you choose a homestay or a hotel, the evening in Haa offers quiet reflection amid a valley that feels far removed from the modern world.

This morning begins with a choice of hikes in and around Haa Valley, each offering a different perspective on the region’s landscapes and traditions. One option is to take a three to four hour section of the Haa Panorama Trail, which winds through fields, forests, and villages with sweeping views across the valley. Another is the shorter one hour round trip pilgrimage to Juneydra Hermitage, a cliff top retreat that has long been a site of meditation for monks and pilgrims. For those seeking higher altitudes, there is also the chance to hike from Chele La Pass down to Kila Gompa, a two hour walk that combines alpine scenery with the serenity of one of Bhutan’s oldest nunneries.

After the morning activity, set out on the drive back to Paro, which takes around two hours. The road climbs once again over Chele La Pass before descending into the broad, fertile valley of Paro. The scenery is just as beautiful on the return journey, with forested slopes, open meadows, and snow capped peaks visible along the way. Frequent stops can be made for photographs and to simply enjoy the fresh mountain air.

Arriving in Paro by early afternoon, you can choose how to spend the rest of the day. One option is to visit the local craft beer brewery, where you can sample Bhutanese brews that blend international techniques with Himalayan ingredients. The visit offers insight into Bhutan’s growing interest in artisanal production while keeping alive the country’s convivial traditions.

Alternatively, you may prefer to enjoy leisure time in town. Paro’s main street is lined with traditional wooden houses, shops selling handicrafts, and cafés where you can sit and watch daily life unfold. A gentle walk through the town is a relaxed way to connect with the valley’s atmosphere before the final day of your journey.

For those who would rather rest, the afternoon can simply be spent at your hotel. A quiet evening here allows you to reflect on the experiences of the past two weeks, from the remote highland villages to the cultural heart of Bhutan. Overnight in Paro.

The final day of your journey is devoted to one of the most iconic experiences in Bhutan - the hike to Taktsang, better known as Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Set high on a cliff face at 2,950 metres, the monastery clings dramatically to the rock wall, appearing almost to defy gravity. The hike takes around four to five hours in total, depending on pace, with a steady climb through pine forest where the scent of incense lingers and prayer flags flutter in the wind.

Along the trail there are several viewpoints offering glimpses of the monastery across the valley, each more spectacular than the last. The path includes sections of stone steps and forest tracks, and while the ascent is moderate, the reward is immense. For many visitors, the sight of Tiger’s Nest appearing through the trees is among the most unforgettable moments of their time in Bhutan.

Reaching the monastery itself, you will explore temples and meditation caves associated with Guru Rinpoche, the patron saint of Bhutan. According to legend, he arrived here in the eighth century riding on the back of a tigress, and meditated in the cave that forms the heart of the monastery. Over the centuries, the site has become one of the most revered spiritual landmarks in the Buddhist world, and for Bhutanese it is a pilgrimage undertaken at least once in a lifetime.

On the return, stop for lunch at the cafeteria viewpoint, which offers commanding views across the valley to the monastery perched impossibly above. From here, it is a downhill walk of about forty five minutes to reach the car park where your driver awaits. The descent allows time to reflect on the day’s spiritual and physical journey.

The late afternoon and evening are left at leisure. You may wish to enjoy some last minute shopping in Paro town, relax in a café, or simply rest at your hotel. The day provides a fitting conclusion to your two week adventure, ending with Bhutan’s most celebrated cultural icon. Overnight in Paro.

After breakfast, prepare for your onward journey. Depending on your flight schedule, there may be time for a short stroll near the hotel or a final walk through Paro town to browse for souvenirs such as hand woven textiles, carved wooden masks, or colourful prayer flags to take home as mementoes of Bhutan.

Your driver will then transfer you to Paro International Airport, a short journey of about 20 minutes. Check in two hours before departure to ensure time for security formalities and to secure a good seat for the views that make this flight so memorable. The descent and ascent in Paro are widely considered among the most scenic in the world, and departing passengers often find themselves glued to the windows for one last look.

As the aircraft climbs, keep watch for the jagged line of the eastern Himalayas stretching into the distance. On clear mornings, sacred peaks such as Mount Jumolhari and even Mount Everest can be visible, offering a spectacular farewell that lingers long after the journey.

The farewell from your Bhutanese guide and driver will be warm and heartfelt, with a traditional scarf of blessing offered as a final gesture of hospitality. The simple words of goodbye carry the hope that visitors will one day return to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.